Ghent

The cathedral is free; the treasure is Van Eyck's Adoration of the Mystic Lamb (1432) — the restored altarpiece glows, and the AR visit walks you through its theft-riddled history.

The medieval port quays, façade after gabled façade reflected in the Leie — Ghent's living room, where everyone sits on the water's edge with a drink at sunset.

A genuine 12th-century moated castle in the middle of the city, with battlement walks and a wonderfully dry-humoured audio guide by comedian Wouter Deprez.

The 91 m UNESCO belfry between cathedral and St Nicholas — take the lift (yes, a lift!) most of the way up for the dragon weathervane and the best view of Ghent's three towers.

The story of Ghent told inside a medieval abbey, famous for the giant walk-on aerial map of the city — spot your hotel from above before you explore for real.

Cobbled medieval lanes packed with restaurants behind the castle, and — a short walk away — Werregarenstraat, the legal graffiti alley repainted almost daily.